（雅思課外精讀）疫情之下時尚界發(fā)生了哪些劇變

留學，語言成績是必要材料之一，并且在申請院校的進程中，語言成績的高低直接影響著你最終能申請什么到水平的院校，下面外語頻道小編為大家具體分享下“【雅思課外精讀】疫情之下，時尚界發(fā)生了哪些劇變”內容。

Fashion victims

為時尚所累

How slow times in the luxury world will separate the bling from the chaff

奢侈品世界緩慢地將精華和糟粕區(qū)分開來

Posh purveyors are having to rethink their business model in a hurry

時尚界不得不反思他們的商業(yè)模式

1. MILAN, PARIS or New York this time of year would usually be teeming with fashionistasscrambling to get from the Balenciaga show to the Chanel party. Not in 2020. Fashion weeks have been cancelled, repurposed as posh catwalk webinars. Shops selling Herms ties and Prada pumps are only just reopening, wondering what to do with stock of pre-covid-19 vintage. Instagram influencers normally on hand to feed the hype have nothing to snap.

往年這個時候，米蘭、巴黎和紐約都擠滿了從巴黎世家時裝秀上趕來參加香奈兒時裝秀的時尚達人。但是今年不一樣。時裝周已經改為時尚網(wǎng)絡研討會。售賣愛馬仕領帶和普拉達高跟鞋的店鋪也才重新營業(yè)，他們都不知道該如何處理那些因為新冠疫情而積壓起來的貨物。而ins上的時尚網(wǎng)紅們也沒有什么可以分享的新品。

2. The world of personal luxury goodsfrom handbags and haute couture to diamond rings and pricey Swiss watcheshas been in hibernation. At the height of the pandemic between March and May sales slumped by 75% or so on a year earlier, according to the Boston Consulting Group. They have slowly picked up as Asia, then Europe and America, started reopening. Even so, the outlook for the luxury world is far from glittering.

個人奢侈品，包括手提包、高級時裝、鉆戒和瑞士手表，都進入了淡季。根據(jù)波士頓咨詢集團的數(shù)據(jù)，在疫情最嚴重的三月到五月期間，銷售量同比下降了75%左右。隨著亞洲、歐洲和美國開始重新開放，奢侈品世界已經慢慢復蘇。即便如此，奢侈品行業(yè)的前景也很黯淡。

3. The global recession hangs over a sector fuelled by consumer confidence. Beyond that short-term shock, the industry is facing an overhaul in how its baubles are made, where they are sold and to whom. Trends once expected to play out over a decade may unfold in mere quarters. Rapid change has set nerves jangling in a business meant to exude timeless tradition.

全球衰退籠罩著這個由消費者信心推動的行業(yè)。除了短期的沖擊之外，在其產品制造方式、銷售地點和顧客等方面，奢侈品行業(yè)也面臨著一場徹底的變革。一度被認為將會在十年內才能顯現(xiàn)出來的趨勢，在短短的幾個季度就表現(xiàn)了出來。在這個本應彰顯永恒傳統(tǒng)的行業(yè)，迅速的變化讓人緊張。

4. Start with who is buying and where. Although most purveyors of luxury are European (with America home to some of the lesser marques), most of their customers come from Asia. Asians bought more than half of the 281bn ($315bn) in bling sold last year. Chinese buyers alone have gone from 1% of purchases in 2000 to 35% last year, according to Bain, anotherconsultancy. But most of thatperhaps 70%was purchased overseas, often on jaunts to Europe.

第一方面是市場和顧客的問題。盡管大多數(shù)奢侈品生產商都在歐洲（美國主要是一些比較小的品牌），但是奢侈品的大多數(shù)顧客都來自亞洲。去年售出的2810億歐元(合3150億美元)珠寶中，亞洲人購買了一半以上。另一家咨詢公司貝恩(Bain)的數(shù)據(jù)顯示，僅中國顧客就從2000年占總購買量的1%上升到去年的35%。其中大部分(大約70%)是亞洲人在海外購買的，通常是在他們去歐洲的旅行中購買的。

5. Unless intercontinental tourism rebounds faster than expected, new ways will have to be found to get Euro-chic into Chinese hands. Firms hope that shopping sprees will simply move from Paris to Shanghai. In the short run, this might boost margins: the likes of Louis Vuitton (part of LVMH, the biggest luxury group) and Gucci (part of Kering, another French giant) charge a third more in China than in Europe for the same products. Closing a few flagship stores in high-renttourism hotspots such as Paris or Milan, which usually sell half their stock to tourists, could save firms money in property costs.

除非洲際旅游能夠快速恢復，否則就必須找到新方法讓中國人能夠買到奢侈品。企業(yè)希望購物狂潮能夠從巴黎轉移到上海。短期來看，這可能會提高利潤：向路易威登和古馳這樣的品牌，在中國的售價比在歐洲高出三分之一。（路易威登屬于世界最大的奢侈品集團酩悅軒尼詩－路易威登集團，而古馳屬于另一家法國奢侈品巨頭）。在巴黎或者米蘭等租金比較高的旅游熱點關閉幾家將存貨賣給游客的旗艦店或許可以為企業(yè)節(jié)省一些房地產開支。

6. Yet any boost to margins may be short-lived. The difference between European and Chinese prices has narrowed. Those in China have been declining as apps make international price comparisons easier and firms woo shoppers facing ever more restrictions from Chinese authorities on bringing luxury items home from abroad. And more shops on the mainland, in cities they would once have deemed dclass, may diminish the aura of exclusivity that shopping on Avenue Montaigne in Paris or New Yorks Fifth Avenue confers. The de factodiscounts were aimed at luring buyers to the West precisely for that reason.

然而，任何提振利潤的措施都不是長久的。由于各種APP使得國際間的比價更加容易，而且，中國政府對國外購買奢侈品的限制也越來越多，歐洲和中國之間的價格差距已經縮小。此外，那些曾被視為低檔的中國城市里，也出現(xiàn)了越來越多的奢侈品店，這可能會削弱在巴黎蒙田大道(Avenue Montaigne)或紐約第五大道(Fifth Avenue)購物所帶來的奢華氣息。歐洲的低價吸引顧客去購物也是出于這個原因。

7. The pandemic has accelerated other trends. Online sales of luxury goods, at 7-8% of the total on average, are around half those of mass-market fashion retailers like HM and Zara. The closure of shops has, predictably, eased some of the reservations brands may have about selling their wares on the internet. LVMH has said online purchases are significantly higher as a share of sales than pre-pandemic. Sales through department storeswhich are in terrible financial shape, notably in Americaare also likely to shrink.

疫情也加速了其他趨勢。奢侈品的網(wǎng)上銷售額平均占總銷售額的7-8%，大約是HM和Zara等快時尚品牌的一半。不出所料，實體店的關閉促進了一些商品的線上銷售。路威酩軒稱，與疫情前相比，網(wǎng)上銷售所占比例顯著提高。實體店的銷售狀況很糟，尤其是在美國。

8. Meanwhile, costs may rise. Though they love to show off in-house artisans stitching handbags and the like, even the poshest maisons quietly outsource some of their production. Many rely on outsiders for more than half their products. These suppliers are often small family firms in Italy, which went into the pandemic with slim margins and slimmer financial buffers. Luxury groups are now having to assist them financially in a hurry lest they disappear for good.

與此同時，成本可能會上升。盡管奢侈品店喜歡展現(xiàn)自己 工匠縫制的手袋等商品，即使是最大的奢侈品商也悄悄外包了一些生產。許多公司一半以上的產品依賴外包。這些外包提供商大多是一些意大利的小型家族企業(yè)，在疫情期間他們利潤微薄，所有的緩沖資金也很少。奢侈品集團現(xiàn)在不得不給他們提供資金支持，以免他們倒閉。

9. All this paints a drab financial picture. Sales are forecast to fall by a third in 2020, and recover only by 2022 at the earliest. That will crimp margins, since luxury firms costs are largely fixed. Rents must still be paid and brands advertisedthe poshest ones spend the best part of $1bn a year on marketingeven as sales droop.

所有這些都描繪了奢侈品行業(yè)的黯淡前景。預計2020年銷量將下降三分之一，最早也要到2022年才能恢復。這將抑制利潤，因為奢侈品公司的成本基本上是固定的。即使在銷售額下降的情況下，租金仍然要支付，品牌也要做廣告大的奢侈品品牌每年在廣告宣傳上要花費10億美元。

10. In many industries, squished margins and falling sales might lead to a slew of takeovers. Few expect that to happen in luxury. Most of the big players have healthy balance-sheets and are expected to find ways to return to profitability (see chart 2). Many smaller marques are controlled by founders or their families, who are loth to sell in a downturn. If anything, consolidation might slow; all eyes are on whether LVMH will complete its $17bn takeover of Tiffany, an American jeweller, agreed weeks before covid-19 struck.

在許多行業(yè)，利潤縮水和銷售額下降可能會導致大量收購。很少有人認為奢侈品行業(yè)會出現(xiàn)這種情況。大多數(shù)大型奢侈品公司資產負債表表現(xiàn)良好，并有望找到恢復盈利的方法(見表2)。許多小型品牌由創(chuàng)始人或家族控制，他們也不愿在低迷時期售賣自己的品牌。相反，合并可能會放緩；焦點集中在路易威登能否完成其對美國珠寶生產公司Tiffany 170億美元的收購，此次收購是在新冠疫情爆發(fā)前幾周達成的。

11. Not all parts of the industry are equally vulnerable. In a crisis, buyers stick to more established brands. They want the best of the best, says Luca Solca of Bernstein, a broker. Good news, then, for the likes of Louis Vuitton and Chanel, which have in fact pushed up prices in recent months. In contrast, brands hoping for a turnaround in their fortunesBurberry is aperennial candidateare less able to gain the attention.

并非奢侈品行業(yè)的每一個環(huán)節(jié)都如此脆弱。在危機中，顧客會選擇更加成熟的品牌。Bernstein經紀人盧卡索爾卡說:他們想優(yōu)中選優(yōu)。對于路易威登(Louis Vuitton)和香奈兒(Chanel)等品牌來說，這是個好消息。事實上，近幾個月來，它們推高了奢侈品價格。相比之下，作為常年候選的品牌，Burberry渴望扭轉命運，但是它不太可能會引起關注。

12. Some segments have also been hit harder than others. Perfumes and cosmetics have held up best: a lockdown is no reason to forgo a skincare regime, apparently. Fashion houses face bigger problems, as cooped-up fashionistas see less need to replenish their wardrobes. Worse, unlike jewellery or handbags, surplus stock of apparel is rapidly going out of style. Overt discounts are frowned upon in luxury for fear of cheapening precious brands. Most at risk are fancy watchmakers like Richemont, which attract sellers at fairs and trade shows that have now been cancelled.

奢侈品行業(yè)的一些部分受到的沖擊可能更大。香水和化妝品未受影響：顯然，封鎖并不是放棄護膚品的理由。時裝公司面臨著更大的危機，因為愛好打扮的時尚人士認為補充衣櫥的必要性減少了。更糟糕的是，與珠寶或手袋不同，剩余下來的服裝正在迅速過時。在奢侈品行業(yè)，公開的折扣是不受歡迎的，因為他們擔心這會使寶貴的品牌貶值。風險最大的是歷峰(Richemont)等靠展會吸引顧客的高檔手表制造商。

13. The question is whether amid this shake-up the luxury world can keep its grip on the wallets of the worlds big spenders. Fears that consumers would opt for a more ascetic post-pandemic future are dissipating: reports of revenge shopping as China emerged from lockdown implies that rich folks appetite for status symbols remains intact. But these worries are being replaced by those over Chinese shoppers developing a taste for nascent local brands, at the expense of the old-world stalwarts.

關鍵是，在這場變革中，奢侈品行業(yè)能否牢牢控制那些闊人的錢包。對消費者未來或許購買欲會下降的擔憂正在消散：隨著中國從疫情中恢復，關于報復式消費的報道意味著富人對于社會地位象征的欲望沒有改變。不過，現(xiàn)在這種擔憂變?yōu)閷θ藗儗χ袊屡d本土品牌感興趣的擔憂所取代，因為這種興趣是以犧牲歐洲奢侈品世界的中堅企業(yè)為代價的。

14. The biggest potential changes may concern the designers themselves. By late June the most exalted would normally start displaying autumn and winter collections in shop windows. This year they will make up for lost time by selling their summer season through the summer, as might seem sensible anyway. Giorgio Armani, an Italian veteran, has argued this should become the new norm. What a bold fashion statement that would be.

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